Tag Archive | tutorial

Gifts of Love: Crocheted Angels

JMJ

In the process of donating baby items to ministries that serve mothers in crisis pregnancies,
my prince and I came across a related ministry, “Gifts of Love”,
that provides burial gowns and pouches, miniature caskets and memory boxes
to families who have lost babies to miscarriage or stillbirth.

As I was talking with the lady who coordinates the ministry,
I noticed that each casket had a crocheted cross on the inside of the lid.
I could make those! (and I did for a while)
But they also needed little mementos to go in the memory boxes,
and over time, I developed a pattern for tiny crocheted angels.
Since “Gifts of Love” already had someone making crosses, I focused on the angels.

Angel

This little angel is trimmed in blue, for a baby boy.
I’ve also trimmed them in pink for girls,
or in gold, for those whose gender is unknown.

MemoryBox

The holy card in the memory box, with Jesus holding a baby
& a guardian angel kneeling before Him,
is from Holy Card Heaven.
It could be taken to be Jesus handing the baby to the angel,
or the angel giving the baby to Jesus.
The inscription reads:

I entrust him to you;
keep him safe for all eternity.


Pattern for Crocheted Angels

Please alert me to any mistakes in the pattern!
I’ve caught several already, but I’m too close to the project to be entirely objective
(I go on kinesthetic automatic pilot).

I use size 30 crochet cotton and a size 11 steel crochet hook.
The first ch 3 always counts as the 1st dc
Make sure to count your stitches in rounds 1-7–it’s easy to add or subtract one!

Head:
R 1: Starting with a magic circle, ch 3, 15 dc in loop. Sl st in top of beginning ch 3, pull magic loop tight. (16 dc)
If you prefer not to start with a magic circle, ch 4, 15 dc in first ch, sl st to top of original ch 4.
Round1
My apologies for the fuzzy photo
R 2-4: ch 3, dc in each dc around. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (16 dc)
Round3
Stuff head. I use rolled up scraps of fabric, but any white stuffing should be fine.
Neck (continued from head):
R 5: ch 1, sc in same stitch as joining, *skip 1 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * around. sl st in 1st sc. (8 sc) This gets hard to see, especially with such fine thread. Just make sure you have 8 sc by the time you’re done with the round!

Neck1
R 6: ch 1, sc in same stitch as joining, sc in each sc around (8 sc)
Bodice (continued from neck):
R 7: ch 3, dc in same space as joining, 2 dc in each sc around (16 dc)
Bodice1
R 8: ch 4, trc in each dc around (16 trc)
Bodice2
Skirt (continued from bodice):
R 9: ch 4, dc in same stitch as joining. *Skip one trc, (dc, ch 1) 3x in next stitch. Repeat from * around, ending with dc, ch 1 in same stitch as original ch 4, sl st in 3rd stitch of original ch 4 (this puts you in position to start the next round without having to sl st to the center of the shell). (8 shells, each 3 dc with ch 1 in between and ch 1 between shells)
Skirt1
R 10: ch 5, dc in same stitch as joining, ch 1. *In center dc of next shell (ie., skip ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1), dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1. Repeat from * around, ending with dc, ch 1 in same stitch as original ch 5, sl st in 3rd st of original ch 5 (8 shells, each 3 dc with ch 2 in between, ch 1 between shells)
Skirt2
R 11: Ch 5, dc, ch 2 dc. *In center dc of next shell (ie., skip ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2), (dc, ch 2) 3x, dc. Repeat from * around, ending with dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, in the same stitch as the original ch 5, sl st in 3rd st of original ch 5. (8 shells, each with 4 dc with ch 2 in between, no ch between shells)
Skirt3
R 12: sl st into next loop. Ch 5, dc, (ch 2, dc) 3x. *In center loop of next shell (ie., skip dc, ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, dc), (dc, ch 2) 4x, dc. Repeat around, ending with sl st in 3rd st of original ch 5. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Trim: With trim color, right side facing, fasten on in 2nd loop of shell (I pull a loop of the new thread through the loop on the skirt & ch 1 to fasten). Ch 1, sc in same loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, *ch 3, (sl st in next loop)2x, (ch 3, sc in next loop) 2x Repeat from * around, ending with sl st in next loop twice, ch 3, sl st in first sc. (ch 3, sc in main part of shell, sl st when transitioning from one shell to the next). Fasten off & weave in ends.
SkirtTrim

Arms & hands:
R 1: Ch 12, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, 3 dc in next ch, ch 3, sl st in same ch as last dc. This cluster of dc will form the hands.
Hands1
Remove hook from loop and insert it into the same stitch in which you made the 2dc (the far end of the clump of dc you just made).
InsertHook
Catch the loop you dropped
CatchLoopand pull it through to “fold” the hands.
FoldHands
Ch 8, sl st to first ch to form a circle.
ArmsCh8
ArmsCircle
R 2: ch 3, dc in each ch until you get to the base of the hands. 3 dc in same ch, ch 3, sl st in same ch.
FirstArm
FirstSleeveDone
Folding the hands away from you, sl st in base of hands on the far side,
PassOverHands
ch 3, 3 dc in same place.
NewSleeve
dc in each dc around.
The dc following your 3dc next to the hands will be hard to find & hard to get into,
since the previous stitch was packed so tight with stitches–but if you miss it,
there will be a gap in the sleeve. Be persistent :).

Join to top of original ch 3. Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 5″ for sewing the angel together.
ArmsDone
Work the arms down over the top of the angel’s head, hands pointing up (it’ll be a tight fit).

Wings:
R 1: ch 7, sl st in first ch to form ring
R 2: ch 6, trc in ring. Ch 2 trc in ring 5 times (7 trc). DO NOT JOIN!
R 3: Turn. ch 5, dc in 1st trc, ch 2, dc in same trc, *ch 1, dc, (ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next trc. Repeat from * around (7 shells, each with 3 dc, ch 2 between dc, ch 1 between shells)
Wings1
R 4: Turn. ch 4, *(dc, ch 2)3x in next dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, *in center dc of next shell, (dc, ch 2) 3x, ch 2, dc in same dc, Repeat from * around, ending with ch 4, sl st in next ch (7 shells, each with 4 dc, ch 2 between dc, no ch between shells, with an extra loop on the shell on each end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
WingsDone
Trim: With trim color, right side facing, attach thread to 3rd ch of first ch 4 of last round. (ch 3, sl st in next dc) 3x, ch 3, pull up a loop in next dc, pull up a loop in next dc, pull last loop through the other two loops on the hook (2 sl st together). *(ch 3, sl st in next dc) 2x, ch 3, pull up a loop in next dc, pull up a loop in next dc, pull last loop through the other two loops on the hook. Repeat from * around, ending with (ch 3, sl in next dc) 3x, ch 4, sl st in next ch. (ch 3, sl in main part of the shell, 2 sl st together when transitioning from one shell to another). Fasten off & weave in ends.
WingsTrim
Halo:
With trim color, ch 20, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring, sl st in each chail around. Fasten off, but leave ends.
Halo
Assembly:
Thread the long thread from the arms into a needle.
Attach arms to bodice by taking the needle into the bodice just under the arms, coning out just over the arms, going into the top of the arms & into the body/head.
Bring needle up through the back of the top of head between the first 2 rounds of the head
SewingHalo
and attach halo with two small stitches (one to the right & the other to the left). Insert crochet hook up through inside of body and head to catch the “tails” of the halo and pull them into the head (hide them without adding bulk to the halo).
CatchHaloTails
Bring needle into head at halo and out at the back of the head. Thread wings onto needle through the center circle (the right side of wings facing the body of the angel) and fasten with a few stitches into the bodice and skirt along the center back. Bring needle up through the body & head, over a tiny bit & back down through the body/head (to secure the thread). Cut thread.
SewWings
Gently tug various parts of the angel into the shape you like.

Angel1

Other stitch patterns also work well in the skirt and wings,
if you’re motivated to play around with them :).

Since I’ve started making these angels, it’s remarkable how many people I’ve come across
who have lost a baby or know someone who has.
Suddenly they started coming out of the woodwork!
It’s been such a blessing to be able honor their suffering,
and to give them an angel (or promise to make one) in memory of their little one.

Interchangeable, Personalizeable Picture Pendant

JMJ

Years ago, I startedImagePartwayIn making my own pendants out of bread/white glue dough, so I could attach my own images. One pendant per image. Now I can wear any image I want in one necklace just by trading pieces of paper/card stock in the back of it!

 

I started with a 1″x11/16″ oval glass cabochon from the craft store (part of a “Bead Landing” “Found Objects” package), although any size or shape of cabochon should work. With jewelry pliers, I formed a double loop (for hanging) in gold 18 gauge jewelry wire, then wrapped the wire twice around the edge of the cabochon, once a little more toward the front and once a little more more toward the back, ending by wrapping the wire once around the original loop and then bringing it down the back of the cabochon. I took the cabochon out and bent the last bit of wire toward the front a little, so it would put pressure on the cabochon when I put it back in. I secured the cabochon to the front wrap of wire with a line of “Glossy Accents” (any clear adhesive suitable for glass should work).

 

EmptyPendantFront

Empty Pendant, Front

 

EmptyPendantSide

Empty Pendant, Side

Empty Pendant, Back

Empty Pendant, Back

 

Then I just printed the images I wanted on card stock, cut them out and slipped them under the wire on the back of the charm!

PendantAgnes

Pendant with St. Agnes Image

 

PendantOurLady

Same pendant with Our Lady, Untier of Knots

 

PendantBack

Back of pendant with image

 

This design isn’t as secure as I’d like. The images have stayed in for me when I wore them, but they could get knocked out. I have ideas for improving the design, but for now I’m pretty excited about the possibilities!

Birthday Magic Box

When I found “magic boxes”, I had to give them a try.

Cover

Side

The butterfly is from Silhouette, with a rainbow fill added (I was astonished to learn that although Silhouette doesn’t allow copy & paste between files, it does allow “drop & drag” from almost anywhere!). I brushed them with glue & sprinkled with clear glitter.

The swirl embossing was done by cutting a file I created in Silhouette Studio (which WordPress won’t allow me to upload) and using a stylus to press squares of cardstock into it. A little brush with an inkpad brought out the design.

Lift the lid, and the box falls open:
Open

The text reads:

In Celebration
Nine Months After
Your InCarnation
Happy Birthday!

(“Carne” means “flesh”,
so “Incarnation” literally means “enfleshment”, ie. conception–
the carnation gets its name from being flesh colored)

The green “fill” is a photo of our lawn in bright sunlight under trees.

Carnations are one of my mom’s favorite flowers, so I worked them in with the butterflies.

The carnations were made by folding squares of paper in half twice
Fold

…cutting with tiny zigzag scissors (with a cut down the center & each side to make petals)
Cut

…pleating the edges against my fingers with a pair of tweezers
Pleat

…crumpling the petals along the pleating & rubbing the tips against an inkpad
CrumpleTint

…and layering 8 or 9 sets of these for each flower (gluing them together in the center). A calyx cut from similarly folded green paper finished each one off.

The ovals were also designed & cut in the Silhouette (although I had to finish a lot of the cuts by hand–I was having trouble with my blade with things that intricate).

To make the flowers & butterflies “fly”, I cut strips of plastic left from laminating relic cards (The cards are laminated several per sheet & cut out, so there are scraps of fused plastic from the edges). I bent back about 3/8″ on each end, glued a butterfly or flower to one bent end & tucked the other through a slit in the base of the card. I glued down the bent ends on the underside of the card, then cut a second bottom to glue over them (to hide & stabilize them).

SideInside
A personalized greeting was written on a separate square of paper & glued into the under side of the lid.

It was a hit!

Roses On My Toeses!

Now that it’s warm enough for sandals, the bows just don’t work.
Roses to the rescue!


(Yes, that’s a cat getting in on the action–he loves shoes!)

I used the rose pattern from the Irish Filigree Necklace,
found in Annie’s Favorite Thread Projects.
It’s quick & easy–the whole project (including figuring out the leaf pattern!)
only took a couple of hours.

For the leaves I started with ch 15, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next ch.
1 dc into each of the next 2 ch
1 trc into each of the next 2 ch
1 dc into each of the next 2 ch
1 sc into each of the next 2 ch

Proceeding up the other side of the chain
(working into the free loop of each ch),
1 sc into each of the next 2 ch
1 dc into each of the next 2 ch
1 trc into each of the next 2 ch
1 dc into each of the next 2 ch
1 sc into each of the next 2 ch
ch 3, sl st to end ch (picot)

Sl st down the center of the leaf to form the vein
(or skip this step if you don’t care about a vein!)
& fasten off.
This leaves a bit of stem, which you don’t really need–
you could probably start with 11 chains.

Sew the leaves to the roses, sew the roses to the shoe clip findings
(I got these on ebay)
clip to shoes and you’re good to go!
(Just make sure you sew them on facing the right way–
I got it wrong the first time & they were pointing backward!)

Bows On My Toes!

Spring is sprung!
Time to decorate my white shoes!
(They desperately needed help!)

I didn’t take photos of the process, though,
so I made another pair in black.

I used this pattern for the lace, although I made the bow itself differently.

I started with a repeat of 6 shells across (a starting chain of 19)
and 5 shells long for the white–7 shells for the black.
The white thread was so old it didn’t have a size designation,
but it seems to be something thicker than size 10.
The black thread is Knit Cro-Sheen (size 10).

You could make the bows larger or smaller
by increasing or decreasing the number of shells in length & width.

Once that was done, I cut the thread & attached at the edge of the beginning chain
to do the same thing in the other direction,
making the shells in the remaining loops of the original chain,
opposite the first shells.
That way the outside edges match each other

The center is the same as the pattern, but only 5 shells long
(you could make them a little longer if you wanted the center a little looser).

I left long tails on the centers
(you could do the same with the original chain on the bows & use that),
threaded a needle with the tail & wove the thread in & out of the center of the bow
(and then back again) to gather it.

With that same thread, I whip-stitched the two ends of the center to each other,
being careful not to catch the bow itself in the sewing.

I pulled & tweaked the bow & the center into the shape I wanted,
then used the same thread to sew on the shoe clip findings
(which we found on ebay).

Here are the finished shoe clips upside down next to the plain shoes
(you can see the shoe clip findings attached)
with some kitty interest :).

And the finished shoe clips on the shoes:

Voila!

Paper Phalaenopsis Orchid Tutorial

I’ve always admired orchids, but have never been brave enough to try grow one…then I saw a pattern on Tally’s Treasury and the Butter Orchid kit by Paper Source (which I can’t find on their site anymore).

I had to try it… 🙂

…and here it is!

I want to make a dozen ;).

Here’s the template I designed, adapted from the two sites listed above.

PaperOrchidTemplate1

The flowers on the first page can be “ungrouped” and taken apart for pattern pieces, and the colors changed, if you want to try other color combinations.

I wet and dried 110 lb card stock to give it a little texture (ran it under the faucet, then let it sit on a towel until it was dry), then ran it through the ink jet printer for the flower parts (I printed the pot and liner on regular 110 lb. white card stock). The printer needed a little coaxing to accept it…I’ve since made others with plain card stock of different weights & I can’t tell the difference, so I’d say that step is optional!

I used my fingers to gently curl the ends of the 3-fold petals forward & used a crochet hook to gently score a line across the back of the 2-fold petals before curling the top & bottoms backward and the sides forward (on either side of the center). The pink centers are all curled toward their center.

The stems on the individual flowers are 22 gauge galvanized steel wire from Fleet Farm, wrapped in green floral tape. I bent the end of the wire into a 1/4″ hook, hooked it over the 3-fold back petals (hook piece in front) & squeezed it tight with needle nose pliers, then glued the 2-fold petals over the top to secure it (Elmer’s white school glue).

If you didn’t need a stem on the orchid, you could just omit the wire & glue the petals to each other directly–it would be lovely on a card or in a frame!

The center pink petals were only glued at the very center back, between the upper “wings”. The triangular piece was attached with a tiny triangle of mounting tape.

The stem was then arched behind the flower and turned sideways to go along the main stem.

The main stem is 18-gauge floral stem wire wrapped with green floral tape.

For the green bud, the 3-fold green petals (on the page with the leaves) were pierced in the center & the main stem wire fed through. The end of the wire was curled into a tiny circle & glued to the center. Then the petals were cupped & curled toward each other (with the wire circle inside) & glued together at the tips (I just put a little glue at the edges & held them until they stayed together).

The flowers were attached to the stem with more floral tape at the point where the stems turned sideways, and curved to approximate a real orchid plant.

The pot was scored at each corner and glued together at the tabs. The insert was scored and glued together at the edges, but not the top flap. A piece of Styrofoam (from packing material) was cut into a block of roughly 1″x1″x2″ & glued (using Inkssentials “Glossy Accents”–I wasn’t sure Elmer’s would hold), small end down, into the pot. The insert was “closed” (the top flap held in place), held upside down & filled with 5-6 small stones. The pot was placed upside down over the insert & the whole thing gently flipped right side up, shaking to distribute the stones around the Styrofoam (I tried just putting the stones into the pot & adding the insert, but the stones got in the way of the insert). The stones are to keep it from being so top-heavy, so it doesn’t tip over! A hole was pierced through the center of the insert “cover”, and the stem inserted through the hole into the Styrofoam.

The leaves were scored down the center and scored to form veins running roughly parallel to the edge (I modeled them after a photo of a real orchid leaf), then curved by hand. The short stems at the bottom were folded under the leaves & glued to the top of the pot insert on either side of the stem, with the smaller leaves on top.

My printer ran out of yellow ink, so I ended up coloring the leaves with chalks–a bit of a mess! That’s also why I don’t have photos of the process of making the pot–I wasn’t taking them as I went & don’t have the ink to print another one for demonstration purposes–sorry about that!

The top of the pot was then filled with pine bark collected from a stump in our yard.

Let me know if you try your own!